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Understanding Your Horses World - The Key To The Perfect Partnership by Dave Lew

Probably one of the biggest mistakes we make as horse owners – and it’s an understandable one to make – is to assume that our horses perceive and experience the world as we do. They don’t. As mammals, we are both very closely related, and all mammals have the same basic equipment – but the horse’s evolution and senses give him a quite different reality from ours.

How the Horse Evolved
Many mammals live by eating other animals, and many live by eating life of a different sort – vegetation. Although we humans eat both, we function mainly as go-getting predators, whereas horses are defensive prey animals that want to be left in peace and to eat grass. They are most active at dawn and dusk, whilst we are diurnal. We clearly have very different outlooks on life.

Horses’ minds and bodies are brilliantly designed to be classic outdoor, running, grazing plains animals. They have:

An adaptable, wary mind that is quick to learn and that never forgets.
A brain that can go from fast asleep to wide-awake and running within 2 seconds.
The ability to accelerate to around 40 Miles an hour in less than 3 seconds.
A kick powerful enough to kill or seriously disable predators or rivals.
A bite that is capable of the same devastating effect when cornered.
The ability to rest standing up, ready to run, due to a locking mechanism in the legs.
Superb sense of hearing and smell to detect and recognise predators.
Almost all-round vision geared to both detecting nearby movement and scanning the horizon.

This is a formidable survivor for the environment in which it evolved, but a quick run down this list shows how inappropriate our view and our management of one of nature’s specialist animals is.

What his senses tell him
The horse’s sense of touch is very highly developed. He can feel the lightest touch on his coat and is probably less able to stand pain and discomfort than we are. His sense of taste again is similar to ours, and geared to distinguishing between sweet, bitter, salt and sour. Where his senses diverge more from ours are in his hearing, his sense of smell and especially his vision.

HEARING: Horses have a wider hearing range than humans, and can hear higher-pitched sounds. They can pick them up more efficiently because of the funnel-shaped outer ear, which gathers in the sound waves, each ear moving independently in a 180-degree semi-circle to do so.

SMELL: Horses’ sense of smell is far superior to ours, being almost equal to that of the dog. Smells can be detected a mile away if the wind is in the right direction, and horses are capable of following an old or fresh scent trail on the ground or in the air. They use smell to identify not only other animals, whether present or having just passed through, but their physical and emotional states, as well.

VISION: The horse’s eyesight would probably frighten us all to death! Because their eyes are set at the side of their head, horses can see almost all around them, receiving (and being able to process) a different picture from each eye and having an overlap area in front when both eyes are directed on the same view. They also have a blind area immediately in front of their head in an upward direction. They see reds, oranges, blues and purples well, but probably not yellows and greens.

The meaning of it all
Firstly, as a prey animal, the horse is “hard-wired” to run first and think later. We can overcome this tendency by a calm, strong and empathetic attitude in management and training. The horse is not stupid or scatter-brained – he is a normal prey animal, and that is not his fault.

Secondly, we must realize that he is picking up, and may act upon, a lot more messages from the world around him than we ever will. His heightened hearing and ability to smell must make him think we are either half asleep or remarkably stupid because we clearly miss so much!

Thirdly, their vision is geared to detecting movement and shape, not clear, sharp colourful detail. This is why they see better in the dark than we do, but also why they cannot assess strange object and may shy away and become skittish.

Finally, the key to safe, rewarding relationships lies in establishing two-way communication and trust. Horses need to know that if they trust us nothing bad will happen to them. We must also trust and use, and permit him to use, his heightened abilities to assess and cope with our mutual environment.

In short, a successful relationship between horse and human is a tall order for both parties.

For more information and articles, please visit: http://horse-riding.wiop.co.uk

Dave Lewis: Aspiring Author, Full time traffic manager, part time coach driver, keen horse rider and all round nice guy.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Dave_Lewis

Which Arabian Horse is Right for You? Tips to Choosing Your New Horse by Marvin

After years of admiring the gallant Arabian horse from afar - or enjoying one from a local stable - you've finally decided to take the plunge and become an Arabian owner yourself. Congratulations! There’s nothing quite like the exhilaration of mounting your very own regal Arabian horse and heading off for a ride - just you and your new companion.

But, finding the right horse to meet your needs, interest and personality can be quite daunting, not to mention time consuming. There are a lot of things to consider when choosing the right Arabian horse, but most experts agree, a horse’s conformation, condition, training, temperament and personality are the most important things to be considered.

Conformation- Arabian horses are known for their physical attributes: those wide-set eyes: short arched back: and high tail carriage. But don’t be fooled by this horse’s beauty. It’s important when selecting an individual horse to look at its overall body structure and the way it’s balanced. At the most basic level, you want to look for an athletic body structure. Next, you’ll want to carefully study each part of the horse’s conformation to determine how well it will be able to perform the tasks it’s asked to. When considering any Arabian for purchase, it’s important to check the following:

Forehead – should be broad, full and flat Head – should feature well proportioned ears: eyes that are located correctly and are short and soft. This usually signifies intelligence and a good demeanor.

Throat – the throat should be of average thickness with no muscle buildup on the underside of the neck. Look for a nice natural roundness on the top side of the neck. Nostrils – Arabian horses are known for their flared nostrils, which help them take in more oxygen. Be sure they feature wide dilation.

Muzzle – Check for firm lips, with no sagging of the lower one.

Chest – watch for a narrow chest which can cause interference with the front legs.

Forearm – should extend from the elbow to the knee and be well-muscled.

Condition- Arabian horses are known for being a sound breed. Their strong resilient legs and dense compact bone makes them free from most lameness. Of course, any horse can have physical ailments that may go unnoticed by the untrained eye. That’s why it’s important to carefully study the horse’s conformation closely to give you a good idea of its overall condition. As a potential horse owner, it’s also important to understand the purpose of owning your horse in order to determine what condition is acceptable. If you’re planning on showing your newly acquired Arabian horse, than you’ll need to consider its overall look more closely to be sure that it meets showing requirements, as opposed to horse’s purchased for recreational riding only. Never sign any sales agreement without first having a prospective horse carefully examined by a veterinarian of your choice to be certain that it is indeed strong and healthy. Once you’ve received a good health report, you can check it out for these other important features:

Training- While young horses have more energy, they can also be harder to train. Unless you have experience training horses – or are willing to pay for someone who does – it is generally better to stay away from horses under six years of age. Unless you are a horse trainer /or hire a trainer, they can be overly excitable, nervous and even hard to control. However, older horses too may take a bit of work, since they often come with bad habits or poor training and structure.

Temperament & Personality- Loved for their disposition and loyalty, Arabian horses are a wonderful choice for just about any horse lover who wants a true companion for years to come. The best recreational mount is one which is gentle to handle, and sports an attitude that is willing to please. Be sure to visit prospective horses several times to get a true feel for its temperament and personality before making any purchasing decisions. A horse may appear to be perfect in every way, but if your personalities clash, you’ll regret your purchase in no time! Avoid any sellers who aren’t willing to give you the time and space to really get to know the animal. They may be trying to hide a physical flaw or uncomely personality trait. While a horse’s conformation, condition, training, personality and temperament are the most important factors when choosing the right Arabian for you, there are a few other factors to consider:

Your Experience. How much experience you have with horses can make a big difference in the one you ultimately choose to call your own. Arabians are beautiful horses that can be easily picked out of a crowd, making them very appealing to many horse lovers. They are strong and loyal and are well suited for many purposes including showcasing: endurance rides of 50 to 100 miles: harsh weather conditions and of course, recreational riding. Alert and curious, the Arabian is quick and intelligent, making it a wonderful companion.

However, they can also be flighty and high-strung, making them hard to control for the less experienced rider. As is the case with most horse breeds, the Arabian stallion can be difficult to control, while mares are often calmer, and showcase better dispositions. They are more expensive though, which often makes the more mild-tempered gelding (or neutered male), the best choice for many horse buyers who aren’t interested in breeding. The size of the horse is also important. Since Arabian horse can be slightly smaller than some other breeds, you may need to consider your size in relation to the horse before settling on one specific animal.

Choose one that is large enough and strong enough to handle your height and weight to avoid unnecessary injury in the future. While it’s important to pay particular attention to the factors explained above when choosing your next Arabian horse, the most important factor to buying any type of horse – including an Arabian horse – is taking your time. Pick one that best suits your own personality, style and experience and you can’t go wrong.

Marvin David
Owned and lived with the Arabian horses for 50 years.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Marvin_David

Stem Cell Science And Your Horse's Health by Mike Martinez

Stem cell science has had a tremendous advancement within the last ten years. Putting aside all the controversy concerning the ethical nature of embryonic stem cell research, governments research agencies and universities around the world are now pointing at adult stem cells as a major player in the bodies natural renewal system.

Although there is still much to learn about these incredible cells, sciences has prove beyond a shadow of a doubt that bone marrow adult stem cells constitute the bodies natural renewal system.

Amazingly we can now use this same scientific knowledge in the care and health maintenance of our horses. At the beginning of 2006, Stem Tech Health Sciences (stemcell30.com) began distribution of a revolutionary all natural product that helps horses naturally release their own adult bone marrow stem cells into circulation.

Once in circulation these stem cell begin a rebuilding and rejuvenation process that dramatically impacts the animal's performance. It's almost as if the animals get a new air for life. Their mobility is significantly improved. Some users even say their demeanor actually improves as well.

“StemEquine,” as the product is named, helps the body act internally as it did when the animal was much younger and had it's stem cells naturally circulating. As animals age, this includes humans as wells, less stem cells are released into the system. This diminishment of stem cells brings about a quickening of the aging process. Because less stem cells are circulating, less organs are being rebuild and rejuvenated. Very interesting science.

People across the US and Canada are currently focking to the vendors of this product as more and more testimonials come in. Some show horse owners are raving about the improved performance within a very short time on the product.

Science may have come up with the fountain of youth for our beloved pets.

Mike Martinez has been featured in national home business magazines and countless e-forums and ezines. He is a professional Network Marketer residing in Southern New Jersey. Mr. Martinez is involved in the world-wide launch of a revolutionary health product that helps the body circulate it's own stem cells to achieve optimal health. For a free ebook on stem cell research visit http://www.myebookdownload.com/mikemartinez or visit his site at http://www.moreadultstemcells.com

To contact Mike email him at mikemartinezsr@verizon.net

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mike_Martinez

Horsemanship 101 By David Beart

Taking care of a horse can be a fun and rewarding experience. Just like any domesticated animal or pet, they rely on us for their well-being.

The first basic step in caring for your horse is to provide adequate feed, water, and forage. Grain comes in a variety of forms, such as pellets or textured. The compressed brand being granulated into pellets, and textured grain (also called sweet feed), allows you to visible see the oats, corn, and molasses. The preference is yours, but keep in mind your horse may prefer, perform, and thrive better on one versus the other. The amount of grain that you feed your horse will depend on his performance level, general health, and nutritional needs.

The type of hay that you provide is also your choice. There are several varieties, such as timothy, orchard grass, coastal, alfalfa, as well as any mixture of the two. The amount fed will vary on type of hay and quality, as well as your animal’s specific needs. Availability of hay is generally local, so contact your supplier. Be advised that horses need a lot of water, and their buckets will need to be cleaned regularly. Many horses have the habit of dunking their hay and grain into their water while eating (similar to dunking doughnuts into your coffee).

Keep in mind it as harmful to your animal to overfeed as it is to underfeed, so consult your veterinarian if you need help in managing your horse’s weight.

After your horse has eaten, you will surely need to clean his stall. Daily cleaning is recommended. There are several bedding types that you can utilize, including sawdust, shavings, and straw. Sawdust is very easy to use. The wet spots and manure can be easily removed while sifting out the bedding that is still clean. Pay attention to your bedding, some allergy sensitive horses can develop problems if the sawdust is too dry. Some horses develop hives from straw, so it is best to see what type of bedding is best for your horse.

Coat conditioning is enjoyable to the horse, as well as good for him. Basic brushes you will need to brush your horse area curry comb, which loosens old hair and dirt as well as brings the natural oils to the surface. A stiff brush to flick away the loosened particles, and a soft finishing brush for the face will also be necessary. A woman’s hairbrush or comb for the mane and tail works wonderfully. A good way to keep the mane and tail clean, long, and tangle free is to braid them. The mane can be braided into several sections, as well as one braid for the tail. Wash and redo them periodically. Horses do not need full bathes unless they are extremely sweaty or muddy. In such circumstances, dish soap works just as well as more expensive horse shampoos. Toweling a sweaty horse down after a workout is actually more beneficial, especially in cold weather. It also brings oils to the surface, leaving your horse with a naturally glossy sheen.

Hoof care is an essential element of horse care. A horse generally needs his hooves trimmed every six to eight weeks. Shoes are optional, but a good way to look at it is this: Wouldn’t you rather wear sneakers than walk or run on stones barefoot? Your horse feels the same way. Clean the hoof daily if possible. Use a hoof pick to remove all debris and stones, since bruises can lead to an abscess.

It is important to remember that some horses will not be amiable to grooming or hoof care right away. They may also get scared if you clean their stalls while they are in them. Move slowly around the horse as not to startle them. Talk in a soothing voice; reassure them that you will not harm them. Take your time with the animal until he learns to trust you.

David Beart is the owner of the Professors House . Our site covers horse care household finances, family forums recipes and other household issues. http://www.professorshouse.com/pets/horses/horses.aspx

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Beart

What Does This Weather Mean For Turning Out Your Pony? By Steve Babb

Ok, so we all know it has been raining like crazy and half of England is under water. Down here in Cornwall we haven’t had the worst of it but it has rained a lot and we certainly haven’t had a summer yet. That said we had a great spell of weather back in April / May but that was a long time ago now. I’ve just heard the weather forecast and there’s more rain due today-great!!

The Launceston Show was on last weekend and we went down there for the morning- muddy, but not nearly as muddy as the Liskeard Show had been a couple of weeks before. I wrote a quick review of the Liskeard Show, specifically the Mountain & Moorland Classes, so it’s out there if you are interested.

Unfortunately the afternoon of the Launceston Show bought torrential rain so the show was closed. Luckily for us most of the Pony Showing Classes had gone on in the morning so for those Showing in the morning the day hadn’t been a disaster. We watched the Lead Rein Mountain and Moorland, and then First Ridden Classes which were very well attended. The site turned into a mud bath but as at Liskeard the local farmers did a fantastic job towing vehicles out of the mud so everybody got out eventually.

For those that have not read any of our stuff before we have a Cleveland Bay mare, a Welsh Section B and a Shetland Pony. Fortunately for them we have a business supplying tack and essentials for Shetlands and most of the Native Pony Breeds so our three are not short on turnout rugs and such to keep them dry in this weather.

Our three are all in at the moment for different reasons, but in the case of the ponies it is mostly because the grass is continually growing that there is an increased risk of laminitis this summer. Our Shetland Pony, Poppy, started to look a bit sore when ridden on the road and we found a pulse at the fetlock which indicates increased blood flow to the foot. We felt it might be the start of something so we brought her in where she has been for a week now. Our Welsh, Gulliver, has also been put on restricted grazing just to be on the safe side. Lots of extra work but better safe than sorry.

In the stables we are using a Mini Miser Haynet and a Wee Pony Haynet. Basically these have holes that are half the size of the holes in normal Haynets so are perfect for hungry ponies that have a tendency to eat too much. We sell these on our website along with things like the Greenguard Pony Grazing Mask, again a product to restrict the grazing but not completely cancel turnout time. If you want to know more about products for restricting pony grazing please email us or visit the website.

There seems to be the feeling that once the sun comes out here the grass will really grow because we have had so much rain and then owners will need to be very careful that their ponies are not getting too much grass. If you have any concerns we would strongly advise consulting a vet.

Please look out for my piece on buying second hand horse and pony trailers so if you are trying to get one in the second hand market you can benefit from the hard lessons we have learned.

You can learn more about us and see some of our photos at http://www.theponytackshop.co.uk

Pony Pictures - take great photos of your horse or pony

Taking great photos of your pony is something everyone can do with a little practice. All you need to do is follow these tips and your next photo could be worth framing!

Getting organised
Before you rush off with your camera, think about the things you'll need to help you get great pony pics. They include:

- camera
- memory card
- treats for your pony
- something to attract your pony's attention
- grooming kit

Camera settings
Not boring - but absolutely necessary! If its your first time and you're really only practicing, then set your camera to take the maximum number of pictures.

If you already know what you're doing and are taking these for real - then do set your camera to the highest resolution. It will mean you can take a lower number of pics but the quality will be better and you will be able to get them printed to a larger size - so its worth doing.

There is nothing worse than taking a brilliant photo of your pony and not being able to print it to a decent size!

Take a friend
Its more fun and definitely easier to take pony photos with a friend to help attract his attention. Get them to stand just to the side and behind you when they attract your pony's attention. That way you'll get the ideal shot of him looking towards you with his head up and his ears forward.

Groom First
You probably won't want a full groom before taking pics of your pony, but it is a good idea to take off any major stains and mud round his face and neck.

Take lots of photos
This is where your extra memory comes in handy. The more photos you take, the better you'll get at it. The other reason for taking lots of photos is that when you come to look at them later, you can erase all the ones where he blinked as you clicked the button!

Have fun
When you or your pony get bored- stop! You can always have another go another time. Above all, have fun experimenting with different shots.

A Paint Horse's History by Riley Hendersen

You are now wondering what in the world is a paint horse. Where did it come from and who has them? You have never heard of them before and now your curiosity has been spiked and you want to learn everything you can about this special breed.

The American Paint Horse is a breed of horse that combines both the characteristics of a western stock horse with a pinto spotting pattern of white and dark coat colors. It is now one of the fastest-growing breeds in the United States. The paint horse is a descendant from the Spanish horses that were exported to the Americas in the 16th century and it became part of the herds of wild horses that roamed the Western deserts and plains.

They are found around the world and are distinguished by their coloring-which includes spots, stripes, barred legs or splashes of color on a dark or light background-something similar to the camouflage used by soldiers. Their markings can be of any shape or size and are located virtually anywhere on their body. There are three specific coat patterns associated with them:

Overo-The white usually does not cross the back of the horse; at least one and often all four legs are dark; the white is irregular, and is rather scattered or splashy; head markings are distinctive, often bald, apron or bonnet-faced. They may be either primarily dark or white.

Tobiano-The dark color usually covers one or both flanks; usually all four legs are white, at least below the knees; the spots are regular and distinct as ovals or round patterns that extend down over the neck and chest; head markings are like those of a solid-colored horse-solid, or with a blaze, strip, star or snip. They can be either primarily dark or white.

Tovero-There is dark pigmentation around the ears, which may expand to cover the forehead and/or eyes; one or both eyes are blue; there is dark pigmentation around the mouth that may extend up the side of the face; chest spots vary in size and may also extend up the neck; flank spots range in size and are often accompanied by smaller spots; there are spots of various sizes at the base of the tail.

The paint horse was cherished by cowboys for work with buffalo and livestock. Native Americans revered it because they believed it possessed magical powers. Both the cowboys and Native Americans would add color and decorations to themselves and to their horses to make stand out and be different from others. This horse is loved by many and is a dependable, hard worker that is known for its easy, comfortable paces that could be maintained over very long distances-this was, of course, very important to the people in the Old West that rode them.

Over the years, the athletic ability of these animals has been improved by breeding conditions. The unusual coat patters and coloring are still the same and they are intelligent and wonderful animals to ride. They are excellent for the afternoon jaunt, working on a ranch, in a rodeo, riding a trail, or just as a friendly horse for the children to love and enjoy.

How To Deal With Aggression At Feeding Time by Roger Bourdon

Believe me this is not as unusual an issue as you may think.

The problem is how to deal with a horse, who is otherwise gentle and friendly with a wonderful temperament but is very aggressive at feeding time. When it comes time for food perhaps your horse will rear up, paw the ground, bite and push you, and anything else he can think of. As an owner, such behaviour can leave you perplexed as under normal cir*****stances your lovely horse might never ever normally show any signs of bad behavior. So what can you do under such cir*****stances to deal with the situation?

Well, it just so happens that there are things you can do, so if you have experienced such behavior - read on!

First off let's be sure that you understand why your horse may be acting like this. Because this behavior is related to food it is possible that your horse has at some time not been fed enough and has had to compete for his food with other horses. If he was left hungry for considerable periods of time and then when fed had to compete with larger stronger horses he may not have been able to get his fair share and so had to fight for what he got. This behavior around food has stayed with him, despite the fact that he now gets more than enough to eat and doesn’t have to compete for it.

Remember that horses are creatures of habit and even if the cir*****stances change they will still act the same because it's what they have learnt to do – he doesn’t realize that he doesn’t have to compete for the food available and that you are always going to feed him what he needs, so he still thinks he has to get in there and take it.

What you should never do is treat the problem with force, like hitting him when he gets like this. If the suspected cause is correct, hitting him would reinforce his need to be dominant to get his food, so you need to try something different.

The other thing I want to say right now is that I am assuming that you have followed my earlier advice (that you can find in other articles of mine) and have not been feeding your horse as rewards for correct behavior and most certainly not from your pocket. If you have- stop it right now! It doesn’t take any horse long to learn that if you reach into your pocket and a treat comes out, that they can expect one anytime you are with them. If this happens, then when you don’t have anything to give them they may bite you, so I never feed any horse as a reward. If I take a carrot or apple out to the horse its already in my hand when I walk up to them and I do not do it every time so that no habit can be formed.

So the first thing with your horse that behaves aggressively at meal times. is to always feed him on his own (at least until the problem is has been resolved). I would also suggest that you start feeding him more frequently but in smaller amounts – perhaps every 1-2 hours during the day, for a few days (but whatever you do, don’t exceed his proper daily amount of food just split it into lots of small portions). This may encourage him to start seeing food as something that arrives regularly so that there is no need to fight for it. Don’t make any drama about feeding him each time – make it seem like all part of the normal routine. Try this for 3-4 days and see what happens. If it has no effect you an also try following.

I am going to tackle the rearing part first as this is potentially the most dangerous. Have your heard of hobbles? I’m sure you have, this is simply a way of tying the horses legs together so that they can’t move around as freely. Now – this is not cruel and doesn’t hurt them (and they are very unlikely to fall over either) so don’t be afraid of this because its also usually a very quick cure for a lot of different training problems and they learn from it fast. You don’t need special hobbles, good thick rope will do if you are up to the job. I appreciate that some people may not feel able or strong enough to do this, and as I don’t know how calm your horse is normally and if he’s ok with you handling his legs, I can’t help you decide if you will be able to do this safely so I will leave this to you to decide. The reason for suggesting the hobbles first is that the next thing most trainers try is a long swishy whip that is used to scare/surprise/shock your horse out of the unacceptable behavior rather than to hurt him, and I don’t know how you feel about this.

So I want you to hobble his front legs before you put the food anywhere near him (or before he can smell it – don’t even get it out until he's hobbled). Hobbling him will simply make your horse feel insecure. Hobble and leave him in a confined area not in an open yard or field. Then feed him where he is. He may attempt to rear but is likely to be unsuccessful, so all you are really doing is making it uncomfortable for him. Hobbling will also inhibit his movements when he tries to shove you or bite you, so you should be safer like this too.

Just try it out and see how it goes. You must put them on every time you feed him, so a little patience will be required. Remove them when he has finished all his food and you have taken the feeding container away. Repeat the exact same procedure every time you feed him for the next few days. He may react very quickly and calm down or he may take a bit longer.

If you find that he can still rear you’ll need to hobble both front and rear legs, and you may even have to tie the front hobbles to the back, which is a spider hobble. But try just the front legs first and see how that goes.

Grooming Your Horse - Easy Steps by Randall Holman

Regular grooming of your horse is a necessary horse care chore. Whether you view grooming as a “chore” or an enjoyable activity, bare in mind you’re not only keeping your horse’s coat looking healthy and shiny, but grooming allows you to further develop trust and bonding with your horse. Also, regular grooming can alert you to any signs of skin diseases, infections, or injuries. Your horse will appreciate the time and attention he is receiving from you while being groomed, and will look great as well.

Grooming your horse does not have to be long and laborious. With the right tools and established routine, you can be done in no time. For starters, keep all of your horse’s grooming tools in a carry container so they are easy to find and so you don’t have to go running back and forth to look for and fetch the tool you need.

Common items you will want to keep in your horse’s grooming kit include:

soft, medium, stiff bristle brushes
mane and tail detangler
hoof pick
insect repellent
rubber currycomb
mane comb
towel
shedding blade
sponge
hoof dressing
grooming mitt
conditioner

Groom your horse in an open area and secure him using a halter and lead rope by tying him loosely to a post or railing using a quick release knot. This way, should your horse panic and bolt, this will lessen the risk of injury to both of you.

Where do you begin grooming? Some people start with the hooves, while some start with the head, and others simply start somewhere in between. It really doesn’t matter where you start, it’s the fact you are taking the time to care for your horse that counts.

My preference is to start with the hooves. Using a hoof pick, remove any debris starting with the heel moving toward the toe. Use a brush to remove any remaining dirt.
Using a damp sponge, gently clean around your horse’s eyes, muzzle and ears. You can carefully use a very soft bristle brush to brush along the face and forelock areas if your horse will let you. I prefer just using a grooming mitt and my hand.
Using a rubber currycomb, use soft circular motions from the top of your horse’s neck down toward his shoulders. Then use a brush to remove the dirt loosened by the curry comb.
Use the rubber currycomb to loosen dirt on your horse’s body by using smooth circular strokes. Be careful in bony areas such as the shoulders and back. To loosen dirt, it is best to go against the grain of the hair. Next, use a brush in a downward direction to flick away dirt loosened by the currycomb. Once most of the dirt is removed, use a body brush to flatten out and smooth the hair using long sweeping strokes.
Just as with your horse’s face, take care when brushing his legs as they are bony and have tender skin. Use a soft brush on your horse’s legs. I prefer to simply use my hands or use a grooming mitt.
Using a mane comb, gently comb through your horse’s mane. Using a little bit of detangler first helps when combing out the mane. Don’t force out tangles with the comb and pull out hairs, instead remove tough tangles with your hands. Use a stiff brush from underneath to further comb out the mane, followed by a soft brush to lay it back down.
Just like the mane, spraying your horse’s tail with detangler will make brushing it easier. Use a stiff brush to clean and brush the tail. Use your hands to remove tough tangles and avoid breaking hairs. Use a body brush from top to bottom of the tail a few times to make it flowing.
Use a towel and wipe it over your horse’s coat to help bring out the shine. You can spray the towel with conditioner to bring out more of the shine. During the summer months, it’s a good idea to apply an application of fly repellent all over your horse.
Apply hoof dressing to help keep your horse’s hooves moisturized.

Give your horse a small treat when you are done grooming him to further show your appreciation of him. Regular grooming with the same routine will cut down the time needed and will make it more enjoyable for both you and your horse.

Horse Breeds- A Variety of Useful Horse Types Developed by Tania Penwell

The planned mating of horses that is directed by humans has given rise to a number of special breeds of horses. Breeders, the persons who help facilitate healthy horse breeding, seek to bring about an enhancement in the physical performance abilities of the offspring or foal even more than improving their appearance. This matching of ‘form to function’ is a successful means of development of different healthy and (functionally) superior breeds.

People from all over the world have owned horses for various reasons. This is just the reason why various breeds of horses had been developed over the years to provide improved efficiency at particular tasks. Horses can now be classified into three main categories- pony, light and heavy. There can, however, be created further subcategories like draft horses, gaited horses and warmbloods.

It is by learning about these various breeds that an idea can be formed on the kind of horse best suited for a situation and a particular type of work. Some horses are best suited for children to ride on them while some are right for the whole family’s riding purpose. Again, some other horses may be appropriate for racing- the race horses while some others may prove to be helpful on the ranch.

There are a number of popular breeds of ponies the smallest among which is the Shetland pony which is given to children as their first horse to ride on. For older children the Connemara pony is recommended. This being larger than the Shetland is suitable for older children. The Welsh pony little larger than the Connemara is a good breed of horse for young adults and young teens to ride on.

Among the light breeds of horses feature the Miniature Horses. Though this may seem like a pony but it is not actually one. It does not have the characteristics of the pony. This horse serves as a companion for children and also acts as a guide for the disabled. The adored Arabian horses also come into the category of light horses. These are attractive, loving, graceful and speedy horses. The Arabian horse is perceived to be a perfect breed. Not only does it possess the required speed and endurance for racing but it also has got a kind and noble disposition.

The popular light breed horse Thoroughbred is a descendant of the Arabian horse. This being a fast horse is well suited for racing purposes. For ranching a Quarter Horse, an American breed, is most appropriate. The Morgan Horse, a family friendly and hardworking horse is another smaller but useful horse.

Besides these there are also the heavy breeds or heavy horses which include the draft horses or the horses that were used in battle at a time. The Percheron is a small and powerful heavy horse which is easier to train while the attractive Clydesdale is the most famous of the draft horses which were bred to work on farms or pull carts and wagons.